lichess.org
Donate

I make too much blunders

Some of them are stupid and easy to understand like hanging a peice, some other ones I cannot even understand why stockfish classified them as blunders
My games have on average 5-6 blunders which I assume is a lot aspecially for intermediate elos
I also tried to use my time but I still make blunders
@NotABugIt_sAFeature said in #1:
> Some of them are stupid and easy to understand like hanging a peice, some other ones I cannot even understand why stockfish classified them as blunders
> My games have on average 5-6 blunders which I assume is a lot aspecially for intermediate elos
> I also tried to use my time but I still make blunders
I would be grateful if you could send me some example from your game. So far I don't understand anything because everyone makes blunders
@Interesting_choice said in #2:
> I would be grateful if you could send me some example from your game. So far I don't understand anything because everyone makes blunders
thank you for responding


these are examples of games where i won by sheer luck only, and if you go through the stock fish analysis i made too many blunders (4-8)
the thing is despite taking time to think to move i still make big mistakes
@NotABugIt_sAFeature said in #3:
> thank you for responding
>
>
>
>
>
>
> these are examples of games where i won by sheer luck only, and if you go through the stock fish analysis i made too many blunders (4-8)
> the thing is despite taking time to think to move i still make big mistakes
To be honest, I don't think you make so many blunders for your rating. I would only note a sad blunder in the first game when you didn't see that you had a bishop hanging on b7. The only thing I think is wrong with your game is how much time you spend on a move. I must admit right away that I have exactly the same problem, only the other way around. I think for a very long time, trying to find the strongest move, and for a 10-minute game I sometimes think about one move for about 3 minutes, and at the same time the position on the board is not at all critical. This often leads to disappointing defeats. In your case, I think it's the other way around. You make moves very quickly for a 10-minute game, as if you were playing blitz. In this case, it's clear that the quality of the game decreases. It would be cool to find the golden mean (that is, not to rush when you have time and not to think about all sorts of nonsense like I do). Another thing is that it is very difficult. And I don't know how relevant this is here, but in the second game, if you play this setup, you should have gone not d3 but d4 (I can tell from my experience)
@Interesting_choice Thank you for your answer, i appreciate it, sir, as we say “one man's misfortune is another man's fortune” lol
for the opening setup i still cannot figure out which one suites me the most, the thing is I've been trying to go for, i would like something more positional, without being too closed or too open, if you have any suggestions
@NotABugIt_sAFeature said in #5:
> @Interesting_choice Thank you for your answer, i appreciate it, sir, as we say “one man's misfortune is another man's fortune” lol
> for the opening setup i still cannot figure out which one suites me the most, the thing is I've been trying to go for, i would like something more positional, without being too closed or too open, if you have any suggestions
It's a difficult question. For example, if we're talking about white... There's a theory that if you're a positional player, you should play everything except 1.e4 because there's, for example, the Sicilian and there's some kind of chaos going on there. This implies that other moves are positional. I both agree and disagree. I think that if you really want to play aggressive chess, you won't find a better move than 1.e4 because it obviously has much more potential for aggressive chess than, for example, d4, Nf3 or c4. It's true. But on the other hand, it doesn't mean that you can't play positionally if you choose 1.e4. The beauty is that as white, you're leading the parade (if you can call it that) and very often it's you who decides what direction the game will take (aggressive or positional). Personally, for about 1.5-2 years, I played 1.Nf3, then 2.g3, and so on. In fact, everything is much more complicated than it sounds and I did not play it automatically because I did not know how to play white. I used one course from chessable and in the end it helped me a lot. At the moment I am switching back to d4 but only because I want to play something new. I am also a positional player by the way. So that's it. I think that you can play any first move for white and almost always get a positional style of play. For example, if you want to play e4 you should remember that 3 of 4 main moves of black will most likely lead to something positional (e5 e6 c6). In the case of caro cann I would advise you to pay attention to the two knights variation (e4 c6 Nq3 d5 Nc3). The advantage of this variation is that it is not the main line and it has many opportunities where black can quickly get into a bad position (and again it is a very positional variation). Against the French I would advise something like Tarrasch (3.Nd2). If Black goes 3.Nf6 then the position may be a bit complicated but you should take into account that you are playing an improved advance because unlike the advance Black does not have a quick opportunity to jump out with his pieces and put pressure on your pawn on d4). If Black goes 3.c5 against Tarrash then it is quite possible that the position will simply be equal (if Black plays correctly) but from my experience as Black I can say that I do not really like such positions. The computer says equality but White has all his pieces active and Black still needs to correctly bring out the bishop from c8. Against e5 it seems to me that the Italian game may be a very good option or the Ruy Lopez (I prefer the Ruy Lopez because I think the Ruy Lopez poses more problems for Black) but in any case the nature of the game will most likely again be positional. Black can of course complicate the game but usually in this case you will have a good advantage. Against the Sicilian I would suggest the Alapin (2.c3). Many people who play the Sicilian against 1.e4 hate it when 2.c3 is played against them because they don't get what they want - aggressive positions. Something like that. In that case, you'll have to decide what to play against the Scandinavian and Alekhine, but it seems to me that it shouldn't be that difficult. These openings are objectively very good (for example, I'm currently studying the Scandinavian for Black), but if you spend a little time, I'm sure that you'll be able to find something interesting against these variations
Everyone makes blunders, and we all get upset when we make obvious (in retrospect) mistakes. so don't be too hard on yourself.

Just try to take more time in longer game formats. In a rapid game with 10min + 0 you have about 15sec per move for a 40 move game. If its 10min+5sec rapid you have 20sec per move. But not all moves should take the same amount of time. Generally try to evaluate the threat your opponent made with their last move. Once you understand it, you can decide how much time is needed to evaluate the best reply.

Always consider all checks and captures. When you select the move you want to make, do a blunder check. Ask yourself "What is my opponents best reply?" before you make the move.

Try to practice doing those things on every move. If you forget once and blunder, just accept it as a reminder to keep trying to do these things.

Another thing which helps in avoiding blunders is to train tactics regularly. This improves your vision of threats.

Time management in game phases:

In the opening you should try to develop all your pieces quickly to active squares and get your king to safety. Do that before you attack (unless your opponent makes an obvious blunder you can capitalize on).

After the opening is done you'll want to take stock of the position and decide on what a good plan is. Its worth while to invest some time on this as you enter the middlegame.

Do the same thing as you enter the endgame. What are the advantages for you, and disadvantages. What type of plan will favor your side?

It might seem that this uses up a lot of time, but in the end you save time if you have a clear plan. And that too can help you avoid blunders due to time trouble.
One thing I notice right off is that 11....c5?? was played after ~3 seconds of thinking in the Valboom game: lichess.org/twnXDbuq
24...Nxd4?? was played after ~2 seconds. 69...Rxh6?? was played after ~3 seconds.
(At the conclusion of this game, I imagine someone saying, “a fitting end for Valboon,” and White replying, “Valboom!”)